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Barbarian days : a surfing life

Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Grand Haven, MI : Brilliance Audio, Inc., [2015]
Edition/Format:   Audiobook on CD : CD audio : Biography : English : UnabridgedView all editions and formats
Summary:
Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man,  Read more...
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Details

Genre/Form: Autobiographies
Audiobooks
Biography
Named Person: William Finnegan; William Finnegan
Material Type: Biography, Audio book, etc., Internet resource
Document Type: Sound Recording, Internet Resource
All Authors / Contributors: William Finnegan
ISBN: 9781511356749 151135674X 9781511356756 1511356758
OCLC Number: 921854160
Notes: Title from web page.
Compact discs.
Performer(s): Read by the author.
Description: 15 audio discs (18 hr.) : CD audio, digital ; 4 3/4 in.
Responsibility: William Finnegan.

Abstract:

Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art.

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Linked Data


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