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Fashion : 150 years : couturiers, designers, labels

Author: Charlotte Seeling
Publisher: Köln : H. f. Ullmann, [2014] ©2014
Edition/Format:   Print book : English : English edition, Special editionView all editions and formats
Summary:
"This book charts the development of fashion as seen against the historical background of the different eras, beginning with the great couturiers. They were followed, during the 1960s, by a large number of new-generation designers, who were in turn elbowed aside during the 1980s by large, luxury conglomerates. Two decades later, these then found themselves increasingly challenged by chain stores at the cheaper end  Read more...
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Genre/Form: History
Document Type: Book
All Authors / Contributors: Charlotte Seeling
ISBN: 9783848007639 3848007630
OCLC Number: 887942202
Notes: Originally published in Germany as: Mode :150 Jahre -- Couturiers, Desighner, Marken.
Previous edition: 2012.
Translated from the German.
Includes indexes.
Description: 497 pages : illustrations (some color) ; 27 cm
Contents: Foreword: The irresistible alure of fashion / Charlotte Seeling --
1. How fashion came into fashion (The invention of haute couture ; The first designer: Paul Poiret ; An all-round genius: Mariano Fortuny ; Charles F. Worth, Jacques Doucet, Jeanne Paquin, Emile Flöge) --
2. The female body liberated (How dance emancipated women's fashion ; Fashion visionary: Madeleine Vionnet ; The pragmatist: Coco Chanel ; Jean Patou, Edward Molyneux, Lucien Lelong, Jeanne Lanvin) --
3. Madness versus reason (Fshion in hard times ; The surrealist: Ela Schiapareli ; The American couturier: Gilbert Adrian ; Jacques Heim, Marcel Rochas, Mainbocher, Nina Ricci). 4. The well-dressed woman (How the New Look awakened old ideals ; The gentle dictator: Christian Dior ; The strict architect: Christóbal Balenciaga ; Jacques fath, Pierre Balmain, Hubert de Givenchy, Charles James) --
5. Youth culture and haute couture (Street fashion conquers the runway ; A legend in his own lifetime: Yves Saint Laurent ; An outer space Odysseus: André Courrèges ; Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Mary Quant, Pierre Cardin) --
The Japanese: masters of the imperfect (Rei Kawakuho ; Yohji Yamamoto ; Issey Miyake ; Naoki Takinawa ; Kenzo Takada ; Antonio Marras ; Junya Watanabe ; Tao Kurihara ; Jun Takahashi ; Hiroshige Maki ; Atsuro Tayama ; Kosuke Tsumura) --
6. Sex, drugs and rock'n' roll (The triumph of bad taste ; The lady is a punk: Vivienne Westwood ; The provocateur: Jean Paul Gaultier ; Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Franco Moschino, Betsey Johnson). 7. The new era of glamour (When fashion kicked over the traces ; The family-oriented playboy: Gianni Versace ; The toppled crown prince: Christian Lacroix ; Master of the red robes: Valentino ; The flamboyant bird of paradise: John Galliano ; Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Romeo Gigli, Emanuel Ungaro) --
8. Dress for success (Fashion as a status symbol ; An eminence grise: Giorgio Armani ; The women's representative: Donna Karan ; Hollywood-style success: Ralph Lauren ; The queen of limits: Sonia Rykiel ; Missoni, Gianfranco Ferré, Norma Kamali, Michael Kors) --
The Antwerp contingent: rebel poets from Flanders (Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter van Beirendonck, Dirk van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, Bernhard Wilhelm, Raf Simmons, Véronique Branquinho, AF Vandevorst, Stephan Scneider, Haider Ackermann) --
9. Dress to kill (The message is sex ; The brilliant bad boy: Alexander McQueen ; Excess and extravagance: Roberto Cavalli ; The jungle duo: Dolce & Gabbana ; The king of cling: Azzedine Alaïa ; Rick Owens, Hervé Léger/Leroux, Roland Mouret, Antonio Berardi). Challenging legacy: old houses, new names (Gucci, Tom Ford, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Ricardo Tisci, Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière, Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati, Nina Ricci, Olivier Theyskens, Lanvin, Alber Elbaz, Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier, Burberry, Christopher Bailey) --
10. The Modernists (Back to basics ; The master of design: Martin Margiela ; The purist: Jill Sander ; A man of his time: Helmut Lang ; The philosopher: Hussein Chalayan ; Calvin Klein, Viktor & Rolf Akris, Martine Sitbon) --
11. Fashion for the masses (A lavish lifestyle for all ; The art of the apron: Miuccia Prada ; The multitalented chameleon: Karl Lagerfeld ; Isaac Mizrahi, H & M, Gap, Michael Michalsky) --
12. Fashion for tomorrow (Authentic, eccentric, ecological, and vintage ; Back to his roots: Wolfgang Joop ; On a green mission: Stella McCartney ; Individualism, jeans, techno couture, vintage).
Other Titles: Mode.
150 years :
Responsibility: Charlotte Seeling.

Abstract:

Which social, historical and cultural developments coalesced to allow fashion to become what it is today? Which designers had especially significant impact on their fashion eras, and what did their  Read more...

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