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The way of the surfer : living it, 1935 to tomorrow

Author: Drew Kampion
Publisher: New York : Harry N. Abram, 2003.
Edition/Format:   Print book : Biography : English : 1st edView all editions and formats
Summary:
Presents a photographic history of surfing around the world since 1935, and features profiles of eleven of the most important practitioners of the sport.
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Genre/Form: Nonfiction
Material Type: Biography
Document Type: Book
All Authors / Contributors: Drew Kampion
ISBN: 0810946386 9780810946385
OCLC Number: 223837155
Notes: Includes index.
Description: 192 pages : color illustrations, portraits ; 26 cm
Contents: Introduction: walking on water --
Twentieth-century pioneers --
Soaring: the spiritual journey of Woody Brown --
The post-war boom --
The surfer: John Severson, inventing surf culture --
Sculpting performance --
Cheap kenso: Richard Brewer, the shaper's way --
Chaos and anarchy --
Animal tracks: Nat Young, tribal elder --
Sport vs. art --
The stylist: country livin' with Bill Hamilton --
Back to the roots --
Stairway to Heaven: the transformation of Rolf Aurness --
Zen mind --
Cakewalk: Gerry Lopez, the Buddha in the barrel --
The search --
The idol: Tom Curren, still waters run deep --
Grrrls lib --
The inspiration: Lisa Anderson, circling toward home --
Star power --
The teacher: Kelly Slater, the best surfer in the world --
Return of the king --
The warrior: Titus Kinimaka and the soul of Hanalei --
Beauty's edge.
Responsibility: by Drew Kampion.

Abstract:

Illustrated with photography of exotic surfing paradises around the world, surf writer Drew Kampion's book is a short history of surfing worldwide and a fascinating journey into the lives of 13 of  Read more...

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