Chapter One

Peas

Sweet green peas come in three distinct forms in our markets. Traditional shelling peas (also called garden peas or English peas) have become something of a rarity. This is the pea we see in the frozen food aisle. Over with the fresh vegetables, they make a brief appearance in late spring and early summer.

Part of the problem is labor. It takes a long time to shell peas and most people would rather not bother. The other problem is flavor. Shelling peas start to lose their sweet flavor as soon as they are harvested. Peas picked last week will be starchy and mealy. If you want to buy shelling peas, buy from a source that picks them locally and frequently. For these reasons, many cooks stick with frozen peas, knowing they will never be great but that they won't be horrible either. Peas freeze better than most vegetables and are a decent option.

Thankfully, there are other fresh peas. Two kinds of edible-pod peas are available in many areas throughout the year. Snow peas are pale green and fairly flat. Inside the pods (which are the main attraction with snow peas) are tiny, immature peas, really nothing more than tiny seeds or bumps. We generally stir-fry snow peas, which may explain why some stores label them Chinese peas.

The other option is the sugar snap pea, which is a cross between the shelling pea and the snow pea. Like snow peas, sugar snap peas are completely edible, pod and all. However, inside the bright green pods are round, little peas that are especially sweet and tender when properly cooked.

Flat snow peas are best stir-fried without precooking. However, sugar snap peas taste better when blanched first and then stir-fried or sautéed. Blanching sets the bright green pod color and helps cook the tiny peas inside the pods, which otherwise can be tough if these peas are stir-fried or sautéed without precooking.

Availability: Snow peas and sugar snap peas are available year-round, although summer is the best season for them. Shelling peas are usually available only in the late spring and early summer.

Selection: All peas should be brightly colored and crisp. Snow peas will be flexible, while sugar snap and shelling peas should be firm. It's a good idea to taste one or two peas before buying. Peas should be crisp and sweet. If buying shelling peas, open the pod and taste a few. They should be sweet, not starchy or mealy. The peas should fill out the pods, but you don't want swollen peas either; they tend to be starchy.

Storage: All three kinds of peas can be refrigerated in a loosely sealed plastic bag. Shelling peas start losing flavor as soon as they are picked and are best used immediately. Snow and sugar snap peas will keep for a few days in the refrigerator.

Basic Preparation: Snow peas are quick to prepare -- simply pull the strings off the ends like a zipper. The same thing holds true for sugar snap peas; sometimes they also have a piece of the stem attached, which needs to be removed.

As their name suggests, shelling peas must be removed from their pods, a tedious step that yields a very small amount of peas for quite a bit of effort. Grasp hold of the bit of the stem at the end of the pod and pull to open the pods like a zipper. You may need to force the pods open with your fingers by applying pressure on the seam where the string was.

Best Cooking Methods: Snow peas are best stir-fried. Sugar snap peas should be blanched and then sautéed or stir-fried. Shelling peas are best boiled and but, tered, braised, or used in soups and stews.

Other Recipes with Peas: Indian Spiced Potatoes and Peas (page 275) Stir-Fried Water Chestnuts and Snow Peas (page 347)

Sugar Snap Peas with Walnuts and Basil

I find that blanching sugar snap peas before sautéing them guarantees that the peas are cooked through and tender. Shocking the blanched peas prevents them from overcooking and ensures that their exterior remains bright green and does not pucker or shrivel.

Serves 4 as a side dish

Ingredients:
1 pound sugar snap peas, stems and strings removed
  Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoon finely chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons finely shredded fresh basil leaves
  Freshly ground black pepper
Instructions:
  1. Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Meanwhile, prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the peas and salt to taste to the boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Drain and plunge the peas into the bowl of ice water. When cool, drain the peas and set aside.
  2. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the walnuts and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the peas and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Vegetables Every Day. Copyright © by Jack Bishop. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.