| Acknowledgments | | x | |
| PART I CLOTHING AND CULTURE | |
| Kimono Theme and Variations |
| | 3 | (14) |
| | 6 | (1) |
| Clothing as a Cultural System |
| | 7 | (2) |
| | 9 | (4) |
| | 13 | (4) |
| The Natural History of Kimono |
| | 17 | (42) |
| | 18 | (4) |
| Ideas about Indigenous Native Garments |
| | 22 | (3) |
| | 25 | (6) |
| | 31 | (3) |
| | 34 | (4) |
| | 38 | (6) |
| | 44 | (8) |
| Sumptuary Regulations and Cool Chic |
| | 52 | (4) |
| | 56 | (3) |
| The Kimono Discovers Itself |
| | 59 | (52) |
| Kimono Self-consciousness |
| | 60 | (4) |
| | 64 | (2) |
| Civilization and Enlightenment in Early Meiji |
| | 66 | (13) |
| | 66 | (7) |
| | 73 | (6) |
| | 79 | (11) |
| Progressive Representations |
| | 79 | (5) |
| Rationalization and Restrictions |
| | 84 | (6) |
| Kimono Renascence in Late Meiji |
| | 90 | (21) |
| Meiji Kimono and How They Were Worn |
| | 91 | (2) |
| | 93 | (5) |
| | 98 | (3) |
| Western Influence on Meiji Kimono |
| | 101 | (5) |
| | 106 | (5) |
| PART II KIMONO IN THE MODERN WORLD | |
| Women Who Cross Their Legs---Kimono in Modern Japan |
| | 111 | (34) |
| | 114 | (8) |
| The Context of Official Kimono |
| | 114 | (5) |
| | 119 | (3) |
| | 122 | (10) |
| The Taisho Transformation |
| | 124 | (6) |
| | 130 | (2) |
| The Functionalist Critique |
| | 132 | (6) |
| | 138 | (3) |
| | 141 | (4) |
| | 145 | (18) |
| | 146 | (4) |
| Work Clothes---the Other Kimono |
| | 150 | (5) |
| Mingei Aspects of Folk Clothing |
| | 155 | (3) |
| | 158 | (5) |
| | 163 | (54) |
| What the Kimono Signifies |
| | 164 | (4) |
| | 168 | (2) |
| | 170 | (1) |
| | 171 | (22) |
| | 193 | (13) |
| Taste---the Geisha Dimension |
| | 206 | (2) |
| | 208 | (9) |
| PART III KIMONO CONTEXTS | |
| The Cultured Nature of Heian Colors |
| | 217 | (54) |
| A New &Aelig;sthetic System |
| | 218 | (3) |
| | 221 | (2) |
| | 223 | (1) |
| | 224 | (2) |
| | 226 | (14) |
| Colors for a Court Lady's Dress |
| | 240 | (28) |
| | 268 | (3) |
| Moronobu's Fashion Magazine |
| | 271 | (52) |
| Clothing and Common Culture |
| | 272 | (2) |
| | 274 | (2) |
| | 276 | (3) |
| The Kosode Full-length Mirror |
| | 279 | (25) |
| | 304 | (5) |
| | 309 | (6) |
| | 315 | (8) |
| | 323 | (14) |
| Geisha Influences on Kimono |
| | 328 | (2) |
| | 330 | (7) |
| Notes to the Text | | 337 | (13) |
| Notes to the Illustrations | | 350 | (9) |
| Bibliography | | 359 | (10) |
| Index and Glossary | | 369 | |
