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The rise of fashion : a reader

Author: Daniel L Purdy
Publisher: Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press, ©2004.
Edition/Format:  Print book : State or province government publication : EnglishView all editions and formats
Summary:
Collecting and contextualizing many of the earliest and most significant formulations of fashion theory, 'The Rise of Fashion' provocatively examines the proposition that to be modern is to be fashionable.
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Genre/Form: History
Anthologie (Descripteur de forme)
Material Type: Government publication, State or province government publication, Internet resource
Document Type: Book, Internet Resource
All Authors / Contributors: Daniel L Purdy
ISBN: 081664392X 9780816643929 0816643938 9780816643936
OCLC Number: 54803616
Description: xiii, 355 pages : illustrations ; 27 cm
Contents: PART I. ARISTOCRATIC EXCESS AND THE DISPLAY OF RANK --
"Pride" from The fable of the bees (1724) / Bernard Mandeville --
Letter to his son (1750) / Lord Chesterfield --
"The man of the world" (1736) / Voltaire --
"Discourse on the arts and sciences" (1750) / Jean-Jaques Rousseau --
"Etiquette and ceremony: conduct and sentiment of human beings as functions of the power structure of their society" from The court society (1969) / Norbert Elias --
PART II. PUBLIC DISCOURSE AND THE SEMIOTICS OF DRESS --
"On fashion" (1792) / Christian Garve --
"An answer to the question: would it be harmful or beneficial to establish a national uniform?" (1791) / Samuel Simon Witte --
"Adornment" from Sociology (1908) / Georg Simmel --
PART III. DRESS REFORM AND GENDER --
MASCULINE SIMPLICITY --
"The benefits of a national uniform, declaimed by a citizen" from Patriotic fantasies (1775) / Justus Möser --
"Men's fashion" and "Men's hats" (1898) / Adolf Loos --
"The great masculine renunciation and its causes" from The psychology of clothes (1930) / J.C. Flügel --
FEMINIST DRESS REFORM --
"The new costume for the ladies" and "The new dress" from The lily (1851) --
"Some realizations in dress reform" from Feminism in Germany and Scandinavia (1915) / Katharine Anthony --
"Social life" from The second sex (1953) / Simone de Beauvoir --
PART IV. IDEALIST AESTHETICS --
"On art and craftwork" (1797), "on objects portrayed in visual arts" (1797), and "On strict aesthetic judgments" (1798/1799) / Johann Wolfgang Goethe --
"On drapery" from Aesthetics (1820) / Georg W.F. Hegel --
"Fashion and cynicism" (1820) / Friedrich Vischer --
PART V. DANDYISM --
"The dandiacal body" from Sartor Resartus (1831) / Thomas Carlyle --
"The anatomy of Dandyism with some observations on Beau Brummell" (1845) / Barbey D'Aurevilly --
"The dandy" from The painter of modern life (1863) / Charles Baudelaire --
"Fashion and the modern" (1846) / Karl Gutzkow --
"The dialogue of fashion and death" from The moral essays (1824) / Giacomo Leopardi --
PART VI. GLORIFYING THE ARTIFICIAL --
"Beauty, fashion, and happiness," "Modernity," and "In praise of cosmetics" from The painter of modern life (1863) / Charles Baudelarie --
"Jewels" and "Wedding presents" from La dernière mode (1874) / Stéphane Mallarmé --
"The pervasion of rouge" (1896) / Max Beerbohm --
"The suitability of dress" (1882) / Oscar Wilde --
"The eroticism of clothes" from Die Fackel (1906) / Karl Kraus --
"Analysis of the cases (complex of symptoms)" from Transvestites: an investigation into erotic masquerade (1910) / Magnus Hirschfeld --
PART VII. CLASS CONFLECT AND STATUS EMULATION --
"Conspicuous consumption" and "Dress as an expression of the pecuniary culture" from The theory of the leisure class (1899) / Thorstein Veblen --
"Fashion" / Georg Simmel --
"Economy and fashion: a theoretical contribution on the formation of modern consumer demand" (1902) / Werner Sombart --
"Bourgeois dress" (1912) / Eduard Fuchs --
"Fashion" from The principles of sociology (1902) / Herbert Spencer --
"Customs" (1909) / Ferdinand Tönnies.
Responsibility: edited and with an introduction by Daniel Leonhard Purdy.
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Abstract:

Collecting and contextualizing many of the earliest and most significant formulations of fashion theory, 'The Rise of Fashion' provocatively examines the proposition that to be modern is to be fashionable.

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